Pierre Jale went for the jack-of-all-trades approach and showed
off futuristic silver and black evening wear, a gathered off-the-shoulder
blouse and straightforward grey suits. The general lack of cohesiveness
was made up for by some outstanding pieces, such as the fragile black
blouse and the overcoat with broad trimline detailing.
Nostalgy
had some nifty boat-neck pointillist shirts in pastels one would normally
expect of a spring (not fall) collection. While the cinematic costuming
was titillating at least for its accuracy, latching onto the trends
of '20's flapper insouciance mixed with 60's mod may not be the best
way to stand out in a New Labels show. Will having the name Nostalgy
mean that the label will forevermore have to purvey retro fantasy?
It was no surprise
when sprightly CinCyn took the New Labels cake. Cindy
Custodio and Cynthia Florek, who have been operating their company on
the down-low since 2002, presented some dandy Edwardian ready-to wear
suits for women that were almost as fresh as their outerwear. The variegated
green coat with leather patch detailing is retro but unusually unique.
What looks like a burgundy housecoat is gussied up with blue buckles
and magically enters the outerwear realm. Finally, there are CinCyn's
sumptuous furs, used either as aristocratic lining, primal accoutrement,
or as a primary fabric.
Daniel
Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer
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