Montreal- The inaugural edition of Montreal Fashion Week from September 3-7, 2001 has momentarily propelled Canadian fashion to the international circuit limelight, disseminating spores of creative and commercial talent. Fifteen Montreal designers put their best Spring/Summer 2002 fashions forward to generate both an exciting week and tangible opportunities.

Montreal's illustrious engine of couture and apparel has taken a big step to bring media and industry recognition to both the rising stars of Canadian fashion and to established ready-to-wear labels that already enjoy extensive sales in North America and select European fashion capitals.

Alan Herscovici, president of the Montreal Fashion Network describes for Minimidimaxi the significance of this humble but watershed event. "It's an important step in creating synergy between the different sectors of the Montreal fashion industry. One in five suits sold in the United States is manufactured in Montreal. It's time for Montreal design to achieve the same visibility." The Montreal Fashion Network is a joint organization founded in 1998 by the City of Montreal to institute a common forum for exchange among the main sectors of the industry. MFW (Montreal Fashion Week) was implemented to create a calendar for designers already planning to exhibit their Spring/Summer 2002 collections, so that the concentration could be harnessed in a common time slot. With Aria nightclub as the main venue, a large number of shows were held at remote locations, with a shuttle service to accommodate a tight schedule.

The event definitely resonated with the Montreal fashion community. Though some were disappointed that many of Québec's big-name designers didn't participate (and that the buyer turnout was in proportion to this), they realize that fact itself shows a potential for growth. For others, it's a relief to finally be on the fashion circuit. It definitely was a media coup, attracting many of the reigning fashion magazines. Exhibiting designer Luc La Roche, also a MFW committee member, puts it succinctly. "We've been talking about this for a long time. It was time to stop talking and start doing."

Fitting, then, that the week kicked off with a slew of self-starters in the Designer Debut. For her first ever fashion show, Genevieve Gould of GG Creations has taken exquisite fabrics in bleeding gradations of wine and tangerine to tailor a loose-fitting, liberating line of separates.

Bodybag by Jude brings funky clubwear and loungewear into a confluence of vintage solids and streamlined minimalism. There is something galactically functional about the chartreuse and pale red Terrycloth two-piece outfits, frequently incorporating bifurcated snap and zipper collars, motorcycle-ribbed elbow padding and Velcro features. The elliptical seams reinforce Judith Desjardins' technological approach. Desjardins divulges the collection mentality to Minimidimaxi. "I'm taking 80's chic to Brooklyn streets." Literally. Bodybag by Jude has been shown in both New York and Brussels.

Marisa Minicucci's standing-room-only bash at the chic MM Loft reminds us why she has been informally coronated the national purveyor of sophisticated elegance. Classic designs like the navy pinstripe jacket and sabbia stretch microfibre coat were shown alongside tastefully daring designs such as a grey perforated suede drawstring top and pleated jersey with lithographically-nuanced print, engendering a seductive cacao. Despite such forays into semi-casual chic, Minicucci tells Minimidimaxi that the collection is back to basics. "I've decided to simplify my life," she says with a laugh. Once again, an immaculate 200-piece collection offers a fountain of exclusivity for career women who enjoy the finer things in life.

To close the first night of MFW, what better choice than Yves Jean Lacasse of Envers. The ergonomic rethinking of space Lacasse uses to drape the proudly masculine body in elaborate strokes of geometry also invokes Asian rhythms of life. The romantic pinstriped overcoat with back sashes and isosceles lapels worn with the powder-blue pinstriped dress-shirt with versatile wraparound is nothing short of an architectural masterpiece. Envers lapels are exaggerated and majestically fold around the shoulders.

"East Meets Monte Carlo", Claudette Floyd's Spring/Summer 2002 collection for Rush, employs Hindu-inspired fabric to delineate a global appeal. Squares of canvas appliqué, double-layering techniques and glacier-blue brocade embroidery infuse the collection with an exotic exclusivity.

C'est Pas Grave by Fong enters similar territory with a trip to menswear paradise. Vivid solids populate this tropical visual feast, as seen in the blue checkered top and pants with voile and ventilation features. An air of casual mobility makes Fong's designs refreshing, as does the use of Roman print. Fong feels that there is a trend of dressing too casual. "I'm not against being casual, but there's a place and time for being dressy. Being dressy could be fun and comfortable. You just have to have the right combination."

Montreal fashion darling YSO pulled out all the stops on an electrified evening of music and romanticism at his outdoor show, unveiling his new menswear line in collaboration with Patrick Pepin. Men's tops in delicate fabrics with monolithic patches drapes to reveal the man beneath. Transporting us back to a time of boundless fantasy, Siphay Southidara's womenswear line in gossamer fabric such as a 20's Moulin Rouge style cream and crimson satin chevron skirt with cross-laced camisole is breathtaking.

Luc La Roche unveiled his Luk label's Spring/Summer 2002 swimwear/underwear/loungewear collection to a hungry crowd at Aria nightclub. Taking Canadian haute couture across the pond to the beaches of Europe is next on the agenda, and La Roche has the product to do it. His market position is really the result of applying his own advice. "Having a dual production strategy can be a way to constantly create situations of mobility." Miguel Prud'homme of Funky Toque provided great hair styling for the show.

Two-time Griffes d'Or winner Michel Desjardins treated the MFW crowd to another collection of ultra-feminine, seductive eveningwear. The shiny, off-the-shoulder camisole paired with strict black pant or the body-fitting bustier offset by a long, wide skirt would both look great under one of Desjardins' soft raspberry mohair coats.

The last show and closing party for Montreal Fashion Week was held by burgeoning avant-garde Montreal menswear designer Kamkyl at their new location in Old Montreal. Clearly on the cutting edge, Yvonne and Douglas Mandel are virtuosos in combining mature European sensibilities with rebellious masculine militancy. Burnt orange raw seam corduroy pants and the functional multi-pocketed smoke-black jackets with squared shoulders exemplify the new male consumer.

Other talented designers who exhibited at MFW Spring/Summer 2002 include Grand'heur, AQU, Maïa, Catherine Grulé, and Renaud Bélanger.

Montreal Fashion Week, in its modest beginnings, can be pronounced a success. It illustrates that the Montreal designer community is ready to expand its horizons beyond the levels it has already worked so hard to reach. And before presstime, the word was that many designers not participating this season are planning to be in next season's Montreal Fashion Week.

Editor's note: powder-blue and pinstripes are the hot new menswear trends for Spring/Summer 2002 . You heard it here first! Congratulations, Montreal!

Daniel Cox
Fashion Editor
Minimidimaxi LTD. - Canadian Fashion Stage

Photography: Bruno Petrozza

Copyright ©2001 MINIMIDIMAXI LTD.