The world is taking notice of the Montreal fashion industry's accomplishments, as well as its poise in performing under the light of scrutiny. An impressive contingent of international media was in town to see the new MFW, including DNR, Maxim and Videofashion from New York as well as European media giants Vogue Italia, L'Uomo Vogue and WGSN. Two weeks prior to MFW, Wallpaper editor Martin Skegg was in town to probe the local logistics of style-making, visiting the busy ateliers in the throes of putting the finishing touches on their collections. He spoke to Minimidimaxi from his office in London. "We're hearing a lot about Montreal fashion and this is stuff our readers need to know about." As far as fashion is concerned, it's a great time to be Canadian.

A good number of buyers could be seen milling about after the shows, thumbing fabrics and chatting up Pr reps, a sign that organizers had been waiting for. Jamal Parirokh, owner of French fashion boutique Artemesia in Grand Rapids, Michigan came looking for "unique items in fashion and accessories. I'm here for the same reasons I go to Paris- I'm looking for the hard to find haut-de-gamme."

There was plenty for Parirokh and other buyers (including Saks Fifth Avenue, we bid welcome) to choose from. If the event seemed to possess a sharpened focus, it is because the designers had their act together and delivered unequivocal collections.Tavãn & Mitto, Muse and POW flaunted their electric interpretations of women's ready-to-wear while Yso staged another unique foray into delicate couture before a ravenous crowd. Envers stays off the beaten path with deluxe, Middle-Eastern men's wear revisionism just as Kamkyl got down to the basics of dressing the avant-garde man in classic, Italian lines. Mackage and Rudsak produced neat and tidy collections for both men and women, demonstrating that leather is now a fabric to be manipulated as any other. In further innovative fabric uses, On&On Ecolochic slices and dices recycled men's clothes into fabulous grunge creations. Duy, Patrick Pepin, Morales and newcomer Carla administered a cutting-edge booster shot, keeping younger silhouettes alive and healthy in 2003. Swimwear made things fun, with Luk leading the way in ensuring the spring season is a colourful one. But the spotlight belonged to Denis Gagnon, who enriches the legacy of Quebecois design with his spirited collection. It was not only masterfully executed, but infused with a deeply personal touch.

Something simply must be said about the Waxman Gala. Billie Waxman, continuing the fine family tradition of championing the tuxedo, hosted a lavish fashion show at the old Angus train yards, harmonizing 16 designer interpretations of the tux, including his own. The sumptuous, outdoor barbecue and cocktail party that followed was one of the grandest in Canadian fashion history. Waxman has plans to take the concept abroad in the coming seasons.

Several key players on the Canadian fashion stage were nary to be seen, though it would be beneficial to see some consistency in this regard. It is the one sure-fire thing that can guarantee regular coverage from global media outlets. If the big-draw designers of Milan, for instance, for 'scheduling conflicts' or other reasons decided that they would not be showing at their fashion week this season, there would be an outcry so loud that it would scare away what fish remain on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. On the other hand, MFW would have to be a profitable venture for any designer to want to participate. The truth is that Montreal Fashion Week is hitting its stride and it's time to jump onboard and quit confusing that sought-after and flighty creature, the buyer.

Daniel Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer


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