Envers
Spring/Summer 2003

Yves Jean Lacasse of Envers took the cause to ensure the survival of the men s djellaba into the Musee D'Art Contemporain in Montreal for his spring/summer 2003 collection. He uses Celtic symbolism in paisley lining to decorate an otherwise plain, ecru djellaba with wraparound sash for a dressy look. The wraparound longshirt is quickly becoming an Envers staple and makes good business sense as a fly-off-the-rack separate.

For spring/summer 2003, it is executed in grey, caramel and irregular three-tone stripes. A flowing, burgundy gown with raw edges has a rough-hewn, unkempt appeal, while the brown Indian dinner jacket and the purple smoking jacket with gold Jacquard print and satin finish both step into the realm of deluxe eveningwear. For new silhouettes, the strongest statement is the front-gusseted striped shirt, though not necessarily as romantic as the rest of the collection.

I would call my attempt to research the origins of the caftan fruitless, were it not for two things. Firstly, I learned that caftan is simply a westernization of the djellaba, a traditional Maghribi costume with many incarnations. Secondly, it has survived against all odds in the Medieval Muslim West, in pockets of Spain, North Africa, and Sicily through millenniums of a shifting cultural, religious and geo-political map. Thanks to people like Yves-Jean, of course.

Just as in Marrakech in the 1920 s and 30 s women began wearing the djellaba, which hitherto had been strictly a men s garment, Envers introduces some women s wear pieces for the very first time. The high waist tie-wrap chiffon blouson with black lining really nails down the Envers philosophy. What is even more of a testament to the designer s versatility is the multi-layered, irregular striped skirt for women, where he shows that lightness of fabric is not essential to creating an ultimately feminine silhouette.

Daniel Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer

RELATED ARTICLES: MONTREAL FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2003

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