Thien Le
spring/summer 2004
If punk brides had
nothing to wear to their wedding before Thien Le revealed his Spring
2004 collection, they had more than they could choose from shortly thereafter.
I pity the girl
who has to pick between the immaculate satin suits done up in volleys
of cream ribbon, in either jacquard or pinstripe perfection. Le complicates
matters with even more irresistible options in brilliant white. Layered
chiffon and cream lace dresses hang loose with shredded organza, a tweak
that Paul Smith used to funk up his spring wares for 2004.
The bias-cut is
ever so slightly less pronounced, as we were soon to find out in the
library of Toronto's majestic Casa Loma. The double-breasted suit-jackets
are deceptively business-like, except for the flowering effect Le strikes
with the collars. Snug options in floral jacquard are colourful anomalies
in the predominantly white dreamscape.
Shocking, really,
to see the tougher side of Thien Le come out in a collection of soft
silhouettes. The duality gets even more exciting with a lace blouse
designed to showcase the tummy. I don't know what to make of the button-up
blouse with scooped-out sleeves, except to say that it's in line with
Le's new direction.
The denim has an
odd shine to it, and it's not surprising to see Le gravitate to eclectic
fabrics. The result of using zipper and lace on the denim pants is pure
dynamite, and hints at a fetish for subversion. Le's bias cut comes
back with a vengeance in the denim zipper skirt, a deluxe piece that's
bound to be a collector item before the decade's out.
Hark ye, bridesmaids,
the camera's going to love you. White silk chiffon sequined gowns look
like they'll melt with the first exposure to water. Simplicity is the
key here, with frills and accessories relegated to the sidelines. Embedded
grommets mock the treacly romantic without destroying it, yet another
new manifestation of the designer's gifts.
The twenty-first
century bride is graceful, but with a hitch…there's no way she's
walking down the aisle without her grommets, or with two sleeves, or
with any conventionality at all. And chances are, she'll be wearing
Capri pants under that gown.
Daniel
Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer
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