Rudsak
spring/summer 2005
For spring 2005,
Rudsak streamlines their leather delectables while keeping an eye on
the power of colour. What's more, they've secretly re-played some of
their greatest hits.
Banana yellow and
lime green, colours that threaten to drown all others this season with
its unrelenting optimism, is used on more than one skimpy leather skirt,
as well as on high-waisted leather jackets. Who said that shoulder pads
went out with the nineteen-eighties? Despite this glam-central appeal--and
in my argument I cite the proliferation of silver zippers and snaps--the
streamlining prevents anything in the collection from being as kitchy
as the decade that it conjures up. Rudsak uses stretch-wool detailing
on these spring jackets, something they would normally reserve for aviators,
yet it works just as well.
Innovations like
the slit shoulder is new for Rudsak, but they do rely, to their credit,
on some of their market-tested favourites. Can you really ever go wrong
with low-slung treated leather pants, especially ones that flare at
just the right spot? These flares creep into some of the shark fin collars,
as does the two-tone trim that cropped up in several previous Rudsak
collections.
I don't care too
much for the floral pants for men, but the bone-white linen suits are
just unkempt enough to be cool. It looks like many of the men's clothes
mirror the selections for women, just with a boxier cut and maybe slightly
less embellishment. But it's once again the leather pants, this time
stark white, that save the day for Rudsak.
Daniel
Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer
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