Arthur Mendonça
spring/summer 2006
When tried-and-true slickness
is tampered with at a fashion show, fans can either run screaming to
the exit or they can try to appreciate the experiments for being gutsy
and cutting-edge. Canadian design star Arthur Mendonça gave Toronto
Fashion Week more reasons to do the latter.
The double-breasted vest
and pouf skirt aren't the closest of cousins, but other combinations
nail the look-European sharpness that pretends to be casual and low-maintenance.
Stripes do the trick in the clingy dresses and tie-wrap skirts, and
in skimpy pants that cheat their way into being capris. Some of the
80's retro that the designer broke onto the scene with-batwing sleeves
one of the minor culprits-is slowly being siphoned out, thankfully.
The limp, droopy sweaters with tiger faces are self-conflicted but we'll
take them, if for nothing then for variety.
Greens and golds deliver
many of the collection's goodies, and Arthur, season after season, can't
seem to resist the tropical call of banana yellow. A sultry shade of
midnight blue is what he uses to prove that he's not only about body-squeezing
streamlining, using it to fashion a knee-length dress with cut-off sleeves.
It's rare to see Mendonça bucking the trends, as is the case
with the lime green bias-cut prom dress for glam queens. The dandelion
yellow and turquoise chiffon dresses put some stylistic distance between
this and past collections. Bring on the frills! A black and green layered
gown is simply dripping with them, and it crops up around hems and necklines,
adding a sort of instant luxury.
The zenith of the
collection appears to be a first-place tie-a melt-off-the-body leopard
print sweet nothing in one corner, and in the other a floor-length white
gown, swaths of voile gracefully suspended from a braided necklace.
Daniel
Cox
Fashion Editor
John
Ortner
Photographer
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